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The Art of Die-Making 




Press of 

J. A. Richards Co. 

Albion, Mich. 



TS £53 

■IRs 



Copyright by J. A. Richards, ign 



©CI.A2926G5 



Preface 

In compiling this book the author does so 
with the sole aim of passing on to his fellow 
craftsmen the knowledge he has acquired in 
the making of dies for all kinds of fancy 
booklet, catalog and program work, as well 
as the cut-out advertising matter that is ever 
increasing in popularity throughout the world. 
And while there may be, and no doubt are, 
many die makers who could put up a much 
better series of lessons, it remains for them 
so to do, and the main object is to keep them 
as simple in explanation as possible, so that 
they may be readily understood by the man 
who has not the slightest idea of the work 
beforehand. 

It is hoped that those who read this book, 
and have better knowledge of the ways of 
doing any of the operations herein set forth, 
will confer a favor upon the trade by sending 
in their method or manner of doing the par- 
ticular thing in question, and it will be gladly 
given space in the next edition of the book. 

This is the second edition of "The Art of 
Die Making," and it has already grown to 
more than twice its original size in number 
of pages. It will be reprinted from time to 
time, and sent free of charge to all firms who 
have a "Multiform" Outfit in their estab- 
lishment. 

A "Multiform'' Outfit should be a com- 
mon fixture in every shop in the country, so 
great is its every-day usefulness. 
Sincerely, 

I. V RICH \kl)S. 




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Materials 

Buy from the J. A. Richards Company, or 
if you have bought a "Multiform" Outfit, 

you are already in possession of a 
Rule quantity of soft steel cutting rule, 

which is commonly used by all box 
makers the v.orld over, and who consider the 
die making a very simple part of their busi- 
ness. The price of this rule in small quan- 
tities is 10 cents per foot in 80-inch strips, 
but reduced prices prevail when large quan- 
tities are bought. It is made in several 
different thicknesses and bights, but is com- 
monly used for die purposes, such as cut-out 
work requires, in 2-point body, 937 thous- 
andths high, and for fine fancy dies l l /j- point 
body in .937 high. Also the same thicknesses 
can be secured in a lower bight (.918), which 
makes the half-cut through, as for fancy lamp 
shade work, etcetra. It has for genera 1 uses 
three different degrees of temper, namely: 
hard, medium and soft, but we recommend 
only the medium and soft for all faney work- 
dies, and only the very hard rule, where the 
run is a long one of hundreds of thousands 
and cutting heavy stock, in which case hard 
rule can be used if the die is not too fine lined 
for the working of such hard rule, which will 
not stand the small bending that the softer 



rules will. And in this connection it is a 
matter of argument among box makers who 
have extremely long runs, as to whether the 
soft rule is not the best, because it is tougher 
and does not break down as easy as the hard, 
carboned rule. Experience will have to be 
your teacher to suit your own judgment, but 
the rule you receive with the "Multiform" 
Outfit will start you on the right track. 

It has never been the author's experience to 
wear out a die so far that it required renew- 
ing, even when making as high as 100-M 
impressions on six-ply stock. If a die falls 
down, or becomes so dull that it will not cut, 
replace the bad piece with a new one, or 
sharpen it a little, if it is only at some one 
point in the die. 

For the box maker there is a regular brick 
cork that comes in large pieces which can be 
cut up to suit the workman's need as 
Cork he proceeds in the making of his dies, 
but for the printer who is making 
fancy dies for cut-out work, it is the author's 
experience that the small, round corks that 
may be bought of us, or any bottler's supply 
house, are the most convenient and satisfac- 
tory to use, and we have ours made to order, 
samples of which you received in your Outfit. 
Other die makers sometimes argue for the 
advantage of spring rubber for the dies, but 
it costs more, and you do not feel like leaving 
it in the die when it is put away, while it is 
not any better in our estimation than the 
cork. 

This cork is used to push the stock back 
out of the die after the impression has been 



made, and we are lead to make this very sim- 
ple statement, because of the fact that the 
question is asked almost universally by those 
who see a die for the first time. The stock 
does not go through the die at all like it does 
in a solid steel die. One writer asked us how 
the trimmings got out through the back of 
the press, even after reading "The Art of Die 
Making/' so we make this statement to en- 
lighten those who are of a similar mind. 

In an office that has not the convenience of 
a scroll saw, although there is no excuse for 
this, as they can be bought 
Plaster of Paris from $15, up to any price 
you wish to pay, it is quite 
convenient to use plaster of paris in the 
making of dies, and the plaster die is so sim- 
ple, that for all designs that are not made up 
from plates, that would require the most exact 
die, it is about as easy to make a plaster die 
as it is to saw a wood form, and many of our 
most catchy designs are in plaster. The 
common ordinary plaster of paris is used for 
this, that you may procure at any drug and 
most hardware stores, and most economically 
in 10-lb. lots. 

There are many kinds of boards that can 
be used, and all have their merits; but for 

ordinary work a good-seasoned 
Die Board hard wood of smooth grain is all 

that is necessary, though we 
handle board in the laminated kind, as listed 
elsewhere in the book, and also in the very 
best beech, which is made especially to our 
order by the Hamilton Mfg. Company, and 
cannot be surpassed for beautiful working 



qualities. The laminated, which is made up 
of five thicknesses crossed, is most desirable 
when making a fine die, and it can be secured 
in almost any size desired and cut up to suit 
the required die. The beech comes in as- 
sorted sizes (see list). It is ll/16ths thick for 
general purposes. We enclose samples of this 
wood with all "Multiform" Outfits. 

A small tube of liquid glue, a piece of chalk 

or scratch-all, and a Bright, Young Man, will 

complete the needed materials 

Miscellaneous to do a line of die work that 

will bring you in praise and 

profits from your customers. 

It is, of course, out of the question to make 
a success without the great machines that 

bend and cut the rule 
"Multiform Outfit" into any desired shape, 

but we presume, as a 
reader of "The Art of Die Making/' you are 
in possession of these already. 



Making the Die 



If it is a subject that has been sketched up 
with the pencil, and is not required to follow 

arbitrary lines, or is a small job 
Plaster Die that will be used on a few short 

runs, where the die will not get 
rough handling and be dropped or broken, you 
can make a plaster die, as noted in the material 
list. Dies made in this manner are quite as 
substantial as a wood form die, and will last 
just as long, but they will not stand to be 
thrown across the house. It is sometimes 
much easier to make a plaster die than it is 
to make a wood form die, and after a time in 
the work you will make first one kind and 
then the other, and the question will be asked 
you from time to time why you do so. The 
answer is simply "Judgment." 

To start in, have your print before you, or 
your drawing, or a pencil outline of what you 
are to make ; then take a knife or shears and 
cut it out, as you expect to have it when it is 
complete, avoiding the very small bends as 
much as possible in order to save yourself 
work, and you will find that the little corners 
do not have to be near as fine as you at first 
think they should be. Now, take a long 
breath and decide which way you want the 
design to face — right or left. If it is to be 
made from a plate that has irregular sides, 
you must be sure that you make your die in 
the right way, so it will cut from the right 
side, or you will be very likely to wake up 
after you are all done and find that you have 



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it made upside-down, or just the reverse of 
what it should be, which would mean that all 
of your work was for nothing. So if it is an 
arbitrary subject, and can have but the one 
way of facing, you must turn your design 
face down on the stone or bench, and keep it 
in that position while you bend your rule to 
go around it, having the cutting edge up. 

Do not think that you must have the rule 
all in one piece, because, while this is all right 
if it is easily practical, it is by no means neces- 
sary. By having the ends of the rule come 
together, with even an ordinary match, the 
die will cut the stock in good shape and leave 
scarcely any thread. It is well, however, to 
get the habit of matching your rule in a close 
manner by taking a small hammer or the 
quoin key and offsetting the face so that the 
shoulder is on the one side only at the meet- 
ing point in the case of angles, making them 
come together the same as the regular brass 
rule that has only the one side shoulder. 

After you have the rule all bent with the 
"Multiform" Outfit, the next thing is tc pre- 
pare the chase for making the cast. 

If you are making a die that you wish to 
use as quickly as possible, you can greatly aid 
the setting of the plaster by placing a sheet of 
heavy tag board beneath the entire chase so 
that it will absorb the moisture out of the 
plaster quickly. Now take the lubricating oil 
can, and selecting the proper sized piece of 
furniture that will make one side of the die, 
and allow a half to one inch margin outside 
of the rule, to make the die strong and in one 
good solid piece after it is cast, oil up the 



piece thoroughly, and do so with the other 
pieces that are to go around the inside of the 
frame around the die. Place your quoins in 
position and have everything in shape so that 
after the plaster is set you have simply to 
tighten up the quoins a little and your die is 
ready to lift. 

Now position your rule inside of the frame 
thus made, and if any of the pieces will not 
readily stand up, you can put an old quad on 
each side of them which, if you do not want 
to leave them in, you can oil and push out 
afterwards, if the nick is faced next to the rule, 
so the plaster will not hold them. Another 
good way to make some pieces stand up is 
to bend an angle on them at the end where 
they cut out into the margin or trim. This 
angle will make the rule stand up, and w r hile 
it will cut the same as the rest of the die, it 
can do no harm, as it will be outside of the 
part preserved. 

You do not always need to break the rule 
in order to break the cut, as you can leave it 
run by and then file ofif the face where you 
wish it to be uncut. This will be found a very 
convenient way in many cases, instead of hav- 
ing several small pieces. The same idea as 
in perforating rule. 

Now take a suitable pail or vessel that will 
hold enough plaster to make the entire cast 
all at one time (it is better to have too much 
than not enough), as more than one batch in 
the same die will seldom knit together and 
therefore it will not make a good, substantial 
die. Mix the plaster by putting it into the 
vessel and letting enough water run in to 



thoroughly moisten it, and get it mixed up so 
as to have no lumps of dry plaster; then thin 
it down to a consistency that will allow it to 
pour readily, more or less thin, according to 
the size of the small pieces that you have in 
the die, so that they will not be knocked down 
by the mixture being too heavy, and moving 
the rule from its position. To avoid this you 
must pour on all sides at the same time, 
raising the level of the plaster at all sides 
equal. A nice way to do this is to have a 
small funnel to pour through, and you can 
direct the flow to any place with ease and 
accuracy. Pour the plaster until it has filled 
up to the hight of the furniture and then 
smooth it ofif nicely. 

Now, before the plaster sets too hard, take 
a number of the small corks that you have at 
hand and press them down into the plaster at 
several places inside and outside of the rule ; 
for instance, at all corners and narrow places 
that will be apt to hold the stock. Do not be 
afraid to have too many corks, and leave them 
to project above the rule about an eighth of 
an inch more or less, according to the resi- 
lency of the corks used, but give them plenty 
of push. These corks, as stated in the material 
list, are to push the stock out of the die after 
it has been cut by the press, and it would be 
impossible to get the stock out without them. 
Use plenty of cork and save time in make- 
ready and running. 

After you have the die all cast, and the 
corks positioned, let it stand awhile until the 
plaster has thoroughly set and become hard ; 
then you can raise it up and aid the drying by 



16 



placing it near the radiator or stove awhile. 

Do not use straw board under the die. as it 
will warp so badly it will be apt to throw the 
rule off its feet. It is best not to use any- 
thing under it, and you can make a very quick 
setting die by not getting the plaster too thin. 

In making plaster dies, if these instructions 
are followed carefully, you will soon become 
adept at the work and think nothing of 
making almost anything that you may need 
in the shortest possible time, with the "Mul- 
tiform" Outfit to do the difficult part. 

After you have used the die for the job it 
was made for, put it away as a constant asset 
in your office, to be picked up as "velvet" 
some day for another job. 

The method of precedure in making a wood 
die is not much different than the plastei die, 
except that it is not quite as 
Wood Dies dirty and, if anything, a lit- 
tle more simple. Take up the 
proper size piece of die board, and glue or 
paste your design or print, or engraver's 
proof, upon it — face up — (not face down, as 
in the plaster die) ; then proceed and saw it 
out in a good, workmanlike manner, after 
boring a small hole to put the saw blade 
through to start it, in order not to break the 
outside margin. If you have not a scroll saw 
such as any one of the many kinds we sell 
(you should have), you can send it out to any 
cabinet maker and get it sawed after once 
going along to tell him just how you want it. 
[f the mill has only a band saw, and cannot 
make some of the very small bends that you 
may desire, have the operator saw one block. 



A FEW MOOD FORM DIES 

"MlJiyriTORM " PRODUCTS 

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preserving the inside ; and then another one, 
preserving the outside part, with enough space 
between them to admit the insertion of the 
cutting rule. In this way there is no bend 
or angle too small to be obtained, even on a 
coarse-bladed saw, and anything can be made. 
(Always saw just inside the line to allow for 
variations and bevel on rule.) 

After you have the die sawed out you must 
consider the way you will put in the rule. 
There are two ways you may do this : One 
is to turn the entire die board over and put 
in the rule face up, and the other is to leave 
the print face up, just as it was when sawed, 
but put the rule into the wood with the face 
down. The latter way is the most general 
custom, and the best, as it is easier to drive 
the rule into the wood because of the bevel 
edge. The reason for putting it in face down, 
when the print is face up (just the opposite of 
the print), is the same as the fact that type 
is backwards from the printed impression and, 
of course, a die must be the same in relation 
to the print as type. This is one of the points 
that you must keep constantly in mind in 
making your first dies. 

When you decide which way you will put 
the rule in, lock the board into a chase and 
draw the quoins up just enough to protect 
the wood from being forced out of shape. If 
you are going to drive the rule in, face down, 
it is well to put a piece of card board on the 
stone, or rather to work on a wooden-topped 
bench, in order that the cutting edge of the 
rule may not be injured unnecessarily. 

Now, with the "Multiform" Outfit, bend 

20 



and cut your steel rule to fit all of the cracks 
where the saw run, and match them up nicely, 
as noted in the plaster die instructions, and 
with the liquid glue attach your corks to the 
wood in all places where it seems there would 
be a chance of the stock sticking. 

As an aid to forming the rule to tit the 
design, it is often a good plan to cut out a 
cardboard pattern that you can hold above 
the machine and form the rule to it. The 
wood die has this advantage over the plaster 
die, in that you do not have to be so accurate 
in the bending, because the wood will draw 
the rule to correct position if it is nearly so 
when driven into the form. 

If you wish to have any scoring rule in the 
die for folding it in any way, why of course 
you can place it in the same as if it were a 
cutting rule, and make ready for it accord- 
ingly. 

Always use the soft rule when making a 
complicated die, as it works much easier and 
will bend much shorter curves and angles. 

The J. A. Richards Company has cutting 
rule that is right. 

There are many little ways and points that 
you learn as you become accustomed to the 
work, but on the first dies you make take 
plenty of time and do not make the mistake 
of bending your steel the wrong way or 
upside-down, which you will be very apt to 
do if you are not careful, as a die must be 
reverse, the same as type. 

If the die is for a job of only a few impres- 
sions, and both sides alike, it perhaps would 
be economy to make only half the die and 



run the job through twee, cutting first one 
and then the other side, by simply turning 
the stock over. 

Buy a small steel scratchall at the hardware 
store to use in marking your points of bend- 
ing, or a small piece of white chalk will do. 

Do not hesitate to make a break in the rule 
if it is not easy to have it one piece, as work- 
ing with the shorter lengths is much more 
convenient and makes no material difference 
in the cutting face of the rule. 

For example, if you have a subject that is 
similar to the bunch of grapes shown in the 
illustration on page four, do not try to make 
several of these curves in one piece, but let 
each curve be a single piece. In this way you 
not only make the work easy, but you make 
the points clean cut, which it would be almost 
impossible to do if the rule was not severed 
at the reversing points 

Do not forget to offset the face as pre- 
viously suggested in making a good match 
of the rules where there are angles : in fact, 
see that all joints come together nicely, and 
do this as you go along, each piece as you 
make it. and thereby get the habit of having 
the die finished up to the last point always, 
which will save time in the end by obviating 
the necessity of going over the work and 
pulling out some one piece after you are ail 
through. 

After you have the die all hnished. if it is 
a large one and is made with more than one 
piece of board, take the little staples you have 
bought for this purpose and fasten it all 
together. It is well to remember in this con- 

22 



nection. that you can sometimes get the inside 
pieces all out of a board, and if you do not 
have any margin for the outside you can put 
on another piece running crosswise of the 
grain of the inside piece, thereby strengthen- 
ing your die. It is only necessary to match 
Up the joining edges nicely so as to make the 
die flat and not bulging. But the best way is 
to have a board large enough, and our lami- 
nated board can be bought in any size. 

We show several pages of illustrations of 
wood and plaster dies and their products, and 
while all of them are simple subjects, remem- 
ber that practically all of the cut-out work 
made today, both in lithographed and printed 
display, is made from "Multiform" Dies, and 
the die making is the simplest part of the 
work. Order your equipment at once if you 
do not already own one. 

A very simple way to make circular dies is 
to take the proper die board, and if you want 
more than one circle lay them off on the 
board and find the centers, and then with an 
expansion bit (which can be bought at the 
hardware store for $1.25) bore out the holes, 
first testing the size in some other piece of 
soft wood, after which you can roll your steel 
on the Bender and cut it on the cutter to 
exactly fit the holes, and drive it in so as to 
make perfect circles without being so par- 
ticular in bending it. For the inside filling 
you can pour in a little plaster of paris and 
stick in a cork or so, according to the diameter 
<>i the die, and you have it ready Tor the press. 
The author lias made made dies in this wax 
with as high as sixteen circles in a beard: \\>v 



instance, with eight 2-inch and eight l^-inch 
circles, all on 2-inch squares, and the same 
with I 1 2 and 1 34 -inch circles on l 1 2 -inch 
squares. A circle that you used to buy from 
the supply house and pay $1.00 for, you can 
make in live minutes with the "Multi- 
form" Outfit. The expansion bit referred to 
will make any diameter up to over 3 inches, 
and when anything larger is desired it is then 
easv to saw it and save the inside. 




■.».-, 



"Multiform" Rule Bender 

(Patented Aug 26, 1902, July. 18, 1911. 
Foreign Patents Pending) 



Unless the Bender, as part of the "Multiform" 
Outfit, is to be placed in some room by itself, it 
is essentially a composing room adjunct, and 
this is the place for it in any small shop, thereto 
making - for convenience. 

It should be mounted upon a strong bench 
about the height of the ordinary imposing stone, 
and before screwing down place it in position 
and mark the base and then in the center of the 
base make a half-inch hole through the bench to 
permit of pushing out any die which ma} 7 become 
stuck in the machine. The screws that come 
with the machine can be used in fastening it. 

After positioning the bender, make a rack or 
box to put the dies in, and have it within easy 
reach. Boring holes in a piece of furniture and 
fastening up back of the machine makes a hand} 7 
rack, and by practicing the habit of putting the 
die back in the rack each time it is used, you 
will save many precious hours of time and also 
conduce to speed in working. 

A place for the different kinds of rule and other 
material should also be made. 

A drop of oil now and then upon the movable 
parts will make the machine last longer and be 
much easier to operate. 

Keep the rule on its feet when bending and 
avoid a springy die. Rule off its feet, especially 



in a plaster die, will vary the cutting heigth. 

The making of the design is all a free hand 
proposition, as the very fact that all cut-out 
work is original in design is what puts the Mul- 
tiform" Bender absolutely in a field by itself for 
the purpose of making cut-out dies, the 13 dies 
furnished making any conceivable bend. Simply 
follow saw slot in wood, the pencil sketch before 
you, or better yet, cut a card-board pattern to 
hold in the hand above rule while bending. 

In making a bend, or several bends for a die, 
by starting with a long piece of rule, you need 
not be changing hands with it in bending in first 
one direction and then another, but simply turn 
it over and back again, over and back again, and 
so on, which is quicker than changing hands to 
some that are all one-handed, and w 7 ould use the 
right hand for the lever hand the most. Of 
course it is well to use both hands in the working 
of the lever, thus swinging from one side to the 
other of the machine, which avoids the necessity 
of turning the rule face down at an} 7 time. 

The permanent clamp former is used to clamp 
the rule against the die and hold it while the 
lever former makes the desired bend. You must 
bear in mind that it is not necessary to have the 
die in one piece, and therefore if you find that 
you are not able to make a certain shape in one 
piece make it in several pieces, simply insuring 
a good match of the 1 ends as you go along. A 
very small circle can be of two halves. 

Always have the movable former lever around 
to either the right or left extreme position before 
you clamp the rule against the die. It the rule 



is stiff and springy you may have to go over it 
twice, the first time not forcing up the former 
head so close as the second time. You invar- 
iably have to use a smaller die than the desired 
size of the finished bend, because of the spring 
in the rule. 

By not having the clamp head up against the 
die and having the former head also away from 
it, you can move the rule as you bend a little 
each time and thereby make a much larger radius 
than even the largest die, and in this manner of 
use } t ou can make large bends by having the 
lever held at a given position and setting the two 
former heads at a distance from the central die 
piece to give you the desired radius of bend 
(test with a lead or slug the radius) and taking 
hold of the rule pull it through this set position 
of dies. There is no limit to the size or radius 
you can make. The central die will usually roll 
as the rule is pulled through. 

The gage can be set at any position on either 
side of the machine, and in using it you first push 
it against the central die in order to have it per- 
fectly perpendicular at the end, then move it out 
to the desired position, which you can measure 
with a line gage, from the point of the bend to 
gage. The groove on each side of gage is for the 
rule to fit in so it will not swerve from its posi- 
tion when the bend is made. You can make as 
many duplicate bends as desired with the gage to 
go by, and it will surprise you what beautiful 
designs can be made with several pieces alike. 
The gage is of course used more by the box- 
maker who uses man}- pieces of a kind, while the 



fancy die maker has seldom two pieces alike. 

If you are in doubt as to how to secure a cer- 
tain bend, take a piece of lead or slug and exper- 
iment on it, as it is cheaper than rule. Practice 
makes perfect, and you soon learn that die mak- 
ing is a very interesting and fascinating occupa- 
tion, and yet simple enough with the "Multiform" 
Outfit to do the bending and cutting. 

If you at any time bend your small central 
dies by using too much pressure, you can easily 
straighten them by putting a nail or such object 
between the former head and the top of the die, 
and forcing the die back into position with the 
micrometer. Avoid the necessity of this by 
using good judgment when bending with the light 
dies and hard steel. 

Remember — a rule die is usually the same as 
type — that is backwards, and you must constant- 
ly watch that you do not bend the rule the wrong 
way. Have 3 7 our pattern before you, or better 
yet, if 3 r ou are using a wood form, saw it first 
always, and have it by the machine convenient to 
put each piece into as you go along, matching 
the joints nicely. 

In making a circle you take a piece of rule of 
sufficient length; an entire strip if you wish, 
select the size die that will come nearest to the 
size circle you wish to make, always smaller of 
course, because you have to take into considera- 
tion the spring in the rule. Put the die in the 
machine and run the permanent clamp bead up to 
within about 1-16 of an inch from it, place the 
rule between the clamp and the die and project it 
through 1-2 inch or so and with the movable for- 
go 



mer lever head set up to the distance (that you 
will soon learn to judge will be correct), make 
a bend on this end projection, but do not let the 
former lever pass off the end of the rule, move 
the lever back again and push the rule forward a 
little more, again swinging the lever around to 
bend the additional straight length. After a 
couple of bends you can judge if the diameter is 
going to be anywhere near right. If it is too 
large move the former lever head in closer to the 
die, and if too small move it out farther from the 
die, as the distance the head is from the central 
die will determine the diameter of the bend up to 
a certain limit with respect to the size die }^ou 
may be using, as for example the i 1-2 inch die 
will make a 3 inch circle perfectly by having the 
former head at the proper distance from the die, 
and if you wish to make more than one circle of 
the same diameter do not change the former 
heads after you once get them set right. Before 
rolling the rule around too far cut off on the 
Multiform" Cutter the straight end that you 
could not bend at the start, and if you are mak- 
ing more than one circle after the first one always 
roll it more than a circle so that you will have a 
perfect end to start with in make the next one. 
In making circles the ' 'Multiform" Cutter is an 
indispensable part of the outfit, because it en- 
ables you to cut off the bend after it is rolled on 
the end of a long strip of rule, which is impos- 
sible on any other cutter built. You can fit the 
circle to the exact size you wish by cutting off 
more or less of it after you have it made, and 
yet retain a perfect square match of the ends by 

30 



reason of the parallel face on the cutter. 

Circles are a cinch when you learn the knack 
of it, but remember and make little short bends 
by moving the rule forward each time and swing- 
ing the lever each forward movement, and avoid 
going too far around so that you get by the half- 
way line and thereby cause the spring in the rule 
to bulge on you and prevent the return of the 
lever. 

After the circle is cut off of the strip you can 
put it back on the bender and go over it all the 
way around and true it up, you can also reduce 
the diameter in this wa} r , by moving in the for- 
mer head closer to the die than when it was 
made. 

To make a small circle, say 3-8 inch in diam- 
eter, which is smaller than the mandrel of the 
cutter, and make it in one piece, 5 t ou must guess 
the length, but do not guess the length and cut 
it off until you first bend the end to the desired 
diameter and trim it so it will be right when the 
circle is done, then estimate the length of rule to 
finish the circle, and at about the place where 
you think it will be ending, bend that also to the 
desired diameter and then cut off the piece. You 
will now have a piece with both ends bent to the 
desired diameter and will only have to finish up 
the middle part of the bending, and this do by 
clamping on the ends where it is already formed 
and not clamping on the middle oi the straight 
part. If you have missed your guess on the 
length, try again, you will soon Learn to be more 
accurate, and it you are making several keep one 
partly finished to cut-off by. Always use soft, 

::i 



thin rule for small circles as it is so much easier. 

The little hair of stock that will be left at the 
joint will suffice to keep the cut-out from sticking 
on the tympan, if you cut directly against the 
metal. If you have any tag board over the metal 
tympan on a circle cut-out it will cut through 
even the hair of stock at the joint and thus cause 
you bother with the scrap. 

If you cannot make good circles the first crack 
out of the box do not blame the machine, because 
it is simply a matter of familiarizing one's self 
with the spring of the steel, and the positioning 
of the former heads. 

If at any time there are any points that you 
wish to know, write the author freely, asking 
about them. 

Also do not be selfish with any good things 
you may get wise to, as there are new things to 
be learned by all of us, and it is up to you to 
help make the next edition of ' 'The Art of Die- 
Making" even larger and more valuable than this 
one is over the last one. 

The die that has the one-fourth inch pin with 
it is the one used for making box hooks, and in 
combination with the other dies of 
Box Hooks the set will make any size hook 
you may want. The material for 
box hooks must always be soft steel as the hard- 
er rule will not stand the severe bending strains 
without breaking. 

In making this explanation in connection with 
the diagram sketch on page 00. The letter A 
represents the movable former lever head; B the 
permanent clamp head, and the figures the differ- 

32 



ent progressive stages of the operations. The 
dotted lines show the position of former head 
and rule before bending. 

If you want to make 50 right hand hooks and 
50 left hand hooks, you first determine the length 
of the rule needed to make the size you wish, by 
taking note of the length of your trial piece. If 
it makes the right size, all well and good, if it 
doesn't you can add to or detract from it accor- 
dingly. 

For the first operation as shown in figure 1, 
place the end of the rule even with the edge of 
the main body of the die, clamp it with B and 
then with A at the edge of the die make your 
bend around as far as the lever will go until it is 
against the other side of the die, as it will spring 
back some when released. Make this operation 
on the entire lot before proceeding further, and 
for the rights and lefts you have but to turn 
over the rule on half of them. If you wish to 
make your hooks with a very narrow throat as 
in fig. 5, you can take a hammer and with one 
crack close each hook up parallel after making 
this first operation, and before making the next 
one. For the second operation, as shown in fig. 
2, place the piece with the lever A on the left 
side of it, and then before you clamp it with B 
put in the pin C and with the lever B even with 
the edge of the main body of the die bring it 
around to a point as shown in the sketch, which 
you may have the same each time by making a 
mark on the face of the machine. If you wish 
to make a very small hook you can bring it clear 
around as shown on the double hook in fig. 5. 

34 



Make this operation on the entire lot, also turn- 
ing the face for the rights and lefts. 

For the third operation, as shown in fig. 3, 
you can take any size die you want, thereby 
making as large a hook as wished for, and of 
course complete this operation on the entire lot 
in order to keep up the uniformity. 

For the fourth operation, as shown in fig. 4, 
place the measure gage E at the desired position 
and thereby get all bends alike on this operation, 
which completes the hook, and although it may 
seem that there are a good many operations to 
go through in making them, it will surprise you 
how quickly 100 hooks can be turned out after 
you get the knack of it. 

Be careful to keep the rule on its feet square, 
especially watch this while making the second 
bend, as the long end of the rule is apt to ride 
the adjusting nut on the former head. 

The illustration number 5 shows that by mov- 
ing your rule back before making the second 
bend you may get any length hook you may 
desire. See star. Use the measure gage so as 
to get them all alike when making the long- 
throat. 

The illustration 6 shows a double hook, which 
is made in the same manner as the single hooks 
up to the the third operation, which completes 
them. You turn the rule face up and face down 
for the opposite ends in making. 

You will find no trouble at all to make perfect 
hooks after a little practice. Large Laundry and 
and Suit-box Hooks, in tact all kinds of special 
hooks can be made with the one-pin die. 

85 




36 




5 a) 

6 S 






£ 



rf o 



''Multiform" Rule Cutter 

(Patented March 21, 1911. Foreign Patents Pending) 



The "Multiform" Cutter was invented by Mr. 
J. A. Richards from a long-felt need of a cutter 
that would not only have some 
Description, size to it, and plenty of clearance 
"" under the knife, but that would 

cut steel and brass rule, and cut it in any form 
it might be in, whether straight or round or any 
conceivable shape, and by the way the words of 
praise and commendation are coming in, it seems 
that the NEED has been supplied. The base of 
the machine is one solid piece and weighs in the 
rough, 50 lbs., and the left extension of the base 
has a planed surface 2 in. wide by 15 in. long 
that makes a very convenient straight edge and 
printers' anvil. The length overall is 21 1-4 in., 
width 14 in., hight 9 1-4 in. 

The straight rule gage shelf is graduated on 
the front edge and on the back edge, the front 
edge being for determining lengths between the 
gage block and the knife, and the back gradua- 
tions being for the determining of lengths for- 
ward of the knife when the front extension gage 
is used. The front graduations also act in the 
same capacity for duplicating the measure when 
the rear extension is used. This gage shelf has 
milled notches in its top surface that are made to 
adjust the gage block to picas, (1-6 inches) and 
in addition to this positive adjustment the gage 
block has a micrometer stud which is subdivided 



into six equal parts that gives an adjustment of 
one point (l-72nd inch) one revolution of which 
gives a movement of 1 nonpariel or 1-12 inch. 
These adjustments are all positive and yet all 
are made with one hand. Any length can be 
secured under 180 picas (30 inches) all with the 
same measuring device and controlled by the 
positive adjustments of the notched gage shelf 
and the micrometer stud gage block. Think of 
it — 180 picas divided into points of positive 
measurement, on front, rear or main gage. 

Another feature of the machine that is entire- 
ly new, and is approved by all who operate it, 
is the eccentric knife bar, which permits of the 
same knife cutting either a shear cut, for all rule, 
or a straight chopping cut for leads and slugs. 
The simple turning of an eccentric stud which 
has a knurled head changes the knife to the 
desired straight or shear cut. No double knife 
or gage, but the same knife and the same gage, 
with the same great latitude. 

The gage shelf throws back out of the way 
entirely when it is desired to cut any other shape 
than the regular straight strip rule, and in cut- 
ting bent shapes the right angle surface of the 
machine is planed so as to make the same square 
cut, as if 3 T ou were cutting straight rule. The 
clearance beneath this mandrel cutting knife is 
4 inches, giving plenty of room for an}' shape of 
rule. The finest point in the entire machine, 
and the one upon which the strongest patent 
claims were laid, is the removable cutting man- 
drel, which may be taken out of the machine 
just as easily and quickly as it is possible to get 
39 



hold of it, and if you wish to cut something that 
is a complete circle or oval or closed up, this is 
a great feature, as a circle as small as 1-2 inch 
may be put on the mandrel and cut, and much 
smaller circles may be cut in partial circumfer- 
ence. All these and many other convenient 
labor-saving features will appeal to the busy 
printer and die-maker who likes to make every 
move count. 

The cutter may be placed at any convenient 
point in the room, but if it is part of the " Mul- 
tiform" Outfit, it should be as near 
Position, as possible to the Bending Machine. 
In fact the two should be on a 
roomy bench by themselves, neatly arranged with 
places for your steel rule and dies for the Bender, 
corks, and other material. If mounted in such 
a place, it is well to screw it down; before doing 
so, put it up and mark with a pencil the outline 
of the frame or base on the bench and then cut a 
slot about 2 inches wide and as long as the left 
extension of the base, to permit of the bent rule 
sticking down through the table. This you will 
find it is often necessary for it to do in order to 
cut off a piece after it is bent in some peculiar 
shape. A similar slot can be cut on the other 
side in line with the rule, but it need not be so 
long, or can be dispensed with without any great 
disadvantage. 

The gage feature on the "Multiform" Cutter 

is one of the most wonderful that it is possible 

to conceive, and at first 

Straight Cutting, glance you may not grasp 

the versatility of it. To cut 

40 



off, for example, a few pieces 10 picas long from 
a piece of rule 30 inches long, you will, as the 
most convenient method, use the front extension 
gage. By placing the front extension back 
against the knife, you will have a 1 pica or em 
or 1-6 inch already measured by virtue of the 
little offset in the end of the gage for supporting 
the end of the rule, with the gage rod back 
against the knife therefore, you place the gage 
block which has the screw-headed micrometer 
adjusting stud in it, back against the extreme 
left gage shelf hinge which places it at 1 on the 
back set of graduation figures, (figures for the 
front extension) now tighten the thumb screw in 
the gage block down to the gage rod and with the 
thumb screw in the gage shelf hinge loose you 
can move forward with the gage block (after 
raising it out of the notches) until you have 
moved up to 10 picas according to the front 
extension figures, which will naturally bring the 
front end of the gage rod also forward to 10 
picas, then when the block is properly placed in 
the notches, you tighten the thumb screw on the 
left gage hinge, which secures the gage rod to 
the set position, after which you may release the 
thumb screw in the gage block and throw it back 
out of the way, giving you a clear shelf for the 
long 30-inch piece of rule from which you may 
then proceed to cut off as many 10-em pieces as 
you wish by projecting it forward under the knife 
each time. The same procedure will give you 
any length up to the full capacity of the front 
extension, and in addition to the picas you may, 
before you tighten the shelf hinge screw, get any 
n 



division of a pica down to a point by the use of 
the micrometer stud, which is divided into six 
equal parts which have each a positive set and 
are numbered from to 5, one full revolution 
making a half pica, (nonpariel) or 1-12 inch. 

For cutting off, say 3 picas, from a piece of 
rule which is 33 picas long, the most convenient 
way is to use the gage block itself on the shelf 
proper, without any respect being paid to the 
gage rod or the ends of it or the thumb screws 
on either, simply setting the gage block at 30 
picas according to the graduations on the front 
edge of the gage shelf, and placing your piece 
of rule in position with the three ems projecting 
beneath the knife. The front extension should 
be out of the way enough to permit of the rule 
passing under it as far as desired, though no 
particular attention need be paid to it as to 
position. 

To use the rear extension, which is for cutting 
any length longer than the main gage block will 
cut on the shelf, }^ou bring the rear extension 
gage finger up against the left gage shelf hinge 
with the finger on the shelf, which will bring it 
back to 86 picas; (this finger when properly 
placed on the gage rod is just the opposite from 
the front return bend of the rod, which permits 
of the rod being used for its full length up 
against the front hinge, and not coming under 
the knife at all.) Now place the gage block 
towards the knife and if you wish to cut a length 
of, say, 106 picas you can put it down into the 
notches at any graduation mark, but preferably 
at 3, so as to become accustomed to it mentally, 

42 



then tighten the thumb screw in the block 
and with the hinge thumb screw loose, raise the 
block out of the notches and move rod and block 
back 20 picas on the shelf, putting it down at 
23 picas; this you can readily see will add 20 
picas to the positive 86 which will give you the 
desired 106 picas. If you want any points or a 
nonpariel in addition to that, use the micrometer, 
after which tighten up the screw on the shelf 
hinge and release the gage block screw and throw 
it back out of the way, allowing a clear shelf for 
the long length of rule. You of course take into 
consideration the 1 pica offset when using the 
extension on the rear as there is no allowance 
made for this as there is on the front gradua- 
tions. This is very simple, as you brought the 
gage finger back to 85 which left the offset at 86, 
whereas if } t ou were only going to cut some 
length that did not run off of the shelf, as for 
example 95 picas, you would cut directly against 
the end of the finger and pay no attention to the 
offset, which is for supporting purposes only 
when cutting longer lengths than the 96 on 
shelf. 

Simply throw the entire straight rule shelf, 
with its gage, etc., back out of position and you 

have all the clearance in 
To Cut Bent Shapes the world for the bent 

rule. If a circle is too 
Or Circles small to go around with. 

out lifting out the man- 
drel do so, place the rule on it, and put it back. 
Always be careful to keep your rule square 
against the vertical lace of the machine. 

IS 



Be careful and do not try to cut steel rule with 
the eccentric on the straight-cut position. Also 
remember, a little oil does not "injure" a rule 
cutter when applied not more than once every 
"ten" years. 

Knives can be mailed us for regrinding, for 
which a charge of 25c plus postage is made for 
the pair. New knives can be mailed promptly 
upon receigt of price. Mandrel, $1; flat, 75c, 
Prepaid. Always give number and series of 
machine when ordering. 

In putting in a new knife or replacing the 
knife after grinding, be sure that it cuts snugly 
against the mandrel knife edge, so as to insure a 
clean edged cut, without any burr. If any pack- 
ing is necessary, use paper or copper thin spaces 
and be sure and cover the entire back of the 
knife, making holes for the screws, by taking a 
round-ended tool like the head of a machinist's 
hammer, which will cut through the material 
when it is laid over the holes. 

When replacing the mandrel knife always see 
that it is placed back in the machine in correct 
position so as to avoid having the top knife come 
down on the curved fillet part of the mandrel, 
which it would do if the mandrel was not thor- 
oughly in the proper position. 



44 



Press Work 

If you have any universal presses in your 
office it is well to use them on the larger jobs, 
but the small Gordons or 
Platen Presses other makes of platens are 
plenty strong enough and a 
great deal more convenient to use for the 
little cut-outs, such as menu cards, programs, 
and small booklets, like "The 'Goose' That 
Lays the Golden Egg/' which was cut out on 
an 8 x 12 C. & P. Gordon, after the work was 
all bound. 

The larger makes of Universal presses, both 
in the John Thompson and the Galley, can be 
purchased with a removable brass platen with 
an added cost of only $5.00, or it can be added 
very easily yourself by simply writing them 
for it and drilling the four screw holes. We 
have in our printing department a style No. 
3, combination B, 14x22 Galley Universal, 
which has the removable brass platen for use 
in cutting and scoring this class of w r ork. 
This press is the largest and heaviest of the 
combination printing presses, and costs less 
than the John Thompson press of a similar 
size by a considerable sum, and while we are 
not selling presses and not boosting any par- 
ticular make, we are convinced that the heavy 
fly-wheel on the Galley we have makes it the 
best press for the work. Of course, you may 
have the convenience of a large cutting and 
scoring press without rollers; if so you are 
doubly well equipped. 

There is on the market two makes that we 

45 



know of in the line of cylinder presses, built 

especially for cutting and 
Cylinder Presses scoring. The best one is 

built by the Cottrell Print- 
ing Press Company, and we understand it is 
giving very great satisfaction. YVe can give 
you full information about this press if you 
are interested, or you can write the builders. 
We should be pleased to handle your inquiry 
if you are interested. 

Y\~e have yet to have some experience with 
the up-to-date, two-revolution presses in 
doing cut-out work, and while the author has 
had several years' experience as erector and 
pressman, with both the Miehle and the Cen- 
tury presses, he is not prepared to say if you 
could successfully deliver, either in the front 
or the back of the press, any complicated cut- 
out. The delivery is the only obstacle in the 
way of the front delivery presses having the 
stripper ringers, and perhaps that could be 
overcome by a temporary tumbler pin being 
arranged so as to drcp the sheet in the back on 
a table arranged above the form. This it 
seems would be practical on the Miehle, which 
is fitted with the safety tumbler pin to again 
right the tumbler. Since the foregoing was 
written in the last edition of the die book, the 
author has seen even an old Campbell two- 
revolution, front delivery press fitted up with 
sheet iron blanket turning out some very 
complicated cut-can jobs for one oi the largest 
lithograph houses in the United States, and 
delivering the sheets out over the stripper- 
fingers to the front jogger board, nicely, and 
without the catching of edges, as would be 



expected. 

But on the ordinary makes of drum cylin- 
ders the work is very simple, and is not much 
harder on the press than the regular form. 
Of course, if one had enough work to keep 
the press busy all the time, it would be policy 
to have one of the special built machines that 
have the heavy construction. The idea ot 
using- the old drum is simply to get a foothold 
in the work, and to show that the equipment 
you have is all-sufficient to get a start. In 
fact, they make good cutting presses for all 
time and cost but little to fix up. 

To prepare a cylinder for the work you 
simply put on a zinc, sheet iron or brass 
tympan (preferably sheet iron), and follow 
the same make-ready as on the platens, and 
in delivering the work, if it is so very limber 
and easy to catch on the fly, you must stop 
the fly and have a couple of boys or girls to 
be on each side of the fly table and catch the 
sheets as they come out, doing away with the 
fly entirely, but this is only an occasional 
necessity. 

If there is any margin that will permit, you 
can run little wires around the cylinder to 
assist the corks in keeping the die clean, the 
same as a pressman tapes his cylinder for 
keeping sheets taught. 

1 1 you have a large drum there is no limit 
to the size of the job. 

If you have not the platen press haying the 

brass cutting plate as mentioned, get a smooth 

sheet of zinc or sheet iron, large 

The Platen enough to lit the platen of your 

press, and extend over a hall 



inch at the top and bottom. Have the tin- 
smith turn this half inch to an angle so it will 
be under your clamps. Use care and get a 
nice-fitting job of it. Zinc is nice for short 
runs of fancy jobs; of course, the same piece 
can be used over and over again for hundreds 
of jobs. 

If this does not give you the proper impres- 
sion you must always use pressboard or tin 
in building up underneath this plate, so as to 
avoid a springy platen surface, and save your 
plate from being destroyed. If you are work- 
ing on a Universal, of course you simply 
adjust your impression bar to fit your job. 
Now take a sheet of manilla board, or, if there 
is no tag board, a piece of bristol two or three- 
ply will do, glue this to your platen all over, 
and take a piece of furniture or something 
and rub it down good. After it has set a 
little while put in your form (having first 
removed your rollers) and take an impression; 
then cut out the glued bristol at the places 
you wish to place your guides, so that the 
guides will glue directly on the platen and the 
bristol board will act as a protection from the 
stock getting under the bottom of the guides. 
Make your guides from a piece of pica rigglet, 
or better yet get some nice strips of poplar the 
right thickness and drive into the face of them 
small pieces of steel rule to act as tongs. 
Have the wood sufficiently wide so as to get 
a good hold with the glue and secure them 
firmly, as heavy cardboard will knock them 
off very easy, much too easy for the press- 
man's liking. For a small run you can use 
ordinary gauge pins and seal them down with 



48 



sealing wax to make a sure hold, or glue on 
quads. 

Now to make the cutting rule work to the 
best advantage, you can ease off the cuts by 
taking your make-ready knife and beveling 
the bristol on both sides of the cut, down to 
the middle. This, when done properly, makes 
it easier on the press, but this need not be 
practiced for ordinary runs of short length. 
In fact, if you are using a zinc tympan plate 
for a short run of 25,000 or less, you can cut 
directly against the zinc and only have some 
paper glued on around the edge to glue your 
guides onto. 

To make the trimmings come out with the 
cut-out: If they break off and want to remain 
behind, you can make a nick or two in the 
face of the rule with a file or another piece of 
rule pounded on it crosswise, in the places 
where it cuts them away too thoroughly. But 
be sure it is not a lack of corks that is making 
the trouble and tearing up the sheet. A thin 
piece of cork on the tympan will help some- 
times, in case of circles sticking to tympan. 

After the job is running nicely on the press, 
keep them jogged as straight as you can and 
it will facilitate the scrapping of the pieces. 
Do not try to scrap them one at a time, but 
take several, and holding them firmly you can 
break away the scraps as easily and nicely as 
one could wish for by a simple twist that you 
will soon acquire, 100 and more at a time. 

If you have any holes to punch in the job, 
if it is a hanger or some simliar job, you can 
do this at the same time you cut them out 
by having a Bullock press punch. If you 

49 



have a good punch in your office you can use 
it, but the Bullock makes a good punch for 
ordinary jobs, and does it at the same time 
the work is cut or printed. We can sell you 
the Bullock punches at the same prices as the 
Type Founders' Specimen Books show. 

If you are making a booklet cut-out, like the 
"Goose Book," and the die crowds the edge of 
the stock up so it does not look smooth and 
nice, you can put a solid block in the press 
and run them all through, pressing out the 
cut-out so it is nice and flat. The "Goose 
Book" was done in this manner the block 
being filed away so as not to press out the 
wing. 

You now have your job finished, and w r ith 
the exception of a few pointers that may be 
of value in preparing of the printing before 
you make the dies, there remains nothing- 
further to be said, as the great teacher is 
experience, and though we had all the infor- 
mation in the world at hand, we would not 
become adept at the Art unless we had the 
opportunity to try out the suggestions. 

You must talk the work up and show your 
customers the illustrations in this book, and 
call their attention to the ever increasing 
amount of this work that is filling the store 
windows, and urge them to be among the 
pioneers in having some of it for their next 
banquet program, catalogue or the next home 
talent show that is given. If you are not 
handy with your pencil, perhaps your cus- 
tomer is, and can furnish his own sketch, for 
the little idea that will surely come to him 
if you present the cut-out proposition in the 

50 



right manner. 

If the job offered is a large one do not hesi- 
tate to demand a little time, and get your 
engraver to submit you a sketch of the idea 
you have thought up, or let them help you 
think it up — that's what they are for. If you 
have an establishment that boasts its own 
artist, you are certainly able to be in the 
front rank with this work and make the 
artist's time doubly valuable. 

If you keep boosting the work to every cus- 
tomer that comes in you will soon find that 
the customer will begin to buy, and when he 
does begin he will buy only of you, because 
thinking of a job of printing goes along w r ith 
the thought of "here's a chance to try some- 
thing in the new cut-out stuff," and presto, 
you have a job. 

"Let 'the 'Multiform' Outfit multiply your 
profits." 

Just a few pointers on the preparation of 
the work and the instructions will be quite 
sufficient to enable anyone with a fair knowl- 
edge of the printing trade to make a credit- 
able showing. 

As an aid to carry out any idea, you have 
at your command all of the type foundry cut 
and specimen books, the illustrations in the 
dictionary and, in fact, you can find almost 
anything you wish to illustrate, and by the use 
of a Pantograph you can enlarge it to any size 
you wish. We can sell you a good Panto- 
graph for $3.00, and every printer should own 
one. We also have cheaper ones as low as 
50 cents. 

If your job is such a one as the Puritan 



hanger that is mentioned in the preceding 
chapters, which is a plate job, with the print- 
ing on both sides, you will bear in mind the 
fact that unless the customer is willing to pay 
for it as an irregular design, it is necessary 
to have both sides of the plate alike in shape, 
so that in backing up each other the die will 
cut them out alike. In doing this kind of a 
job — say 25M lots — it is economy to have two 
plates made, the original and an electro, and 
print both sides at once, as a work and turn, 
of course being sure to keep the same side 
guide on both runs, making a right and left 
feed, as it is next to impossible to cut stock 
accurate enough to get a proper register with- 
out reversing your side guide. 

In having the drawings made, always allow 
a small amount of margin, more or less, for a 
variation of the die and the register, or on 
some classes of work you can add to the 
appearance by leaving a margin of white stock 
around the job. This at times is handy when 
the die is going to be quite fine to make. 

Have an eye to the finished product before 
you start in. While you are running keep an 
eye on your register, by sticking your knife 
through on the several edges. 

On the job like the basket for a picnic, illus- 
trated elsewhere, you should make your die 
first, and then stick it on the press, and with-* 
out any make-ready or any trouble, put in 
enough stock to get a cut-out from it. Take 
this and cut your stock for the job,, allowing 
a small margin around it. Now also use it 
as a frame in which to set your matter in 
proper printing position ; that is, have the 



compositor keep it in hand to go by in setting 
the type, so as not to get outside the die. 
After the composition is up print the job, fold 
and stitch it at some point to keep it together, 
and then proceed to cut it out with your die 
in the manner described. The little booklet, 
entitled "The 'Goose' That Lays the Golden 
Egg," was made in the same manner, all 
printed and trimmed before it was cut out. 
But it w r as planned as a whole at the very 
beginning of the job, the same as any first- 
class office demands now-a-days. 

For a window card like the "Gypsy Rover," 
as shown elsewhere, you make the pen and 
ink drawing with the size of your stock in 
mind (always keep the size of your stock in 
mind on all work), and then send it to the 
plate makers and have the etching made. 
After the plate is returned print up the re- 
quired amount and proceed to make your die 
and cut out the job. Always print the work 
first, whether it is from a plate or a plain cut- 
out, and if it is a plain cut-out, you must have 
a trial cut-out from the die so as to place your 
printing properly. Of course, there are times 
when a simple cut-out that will not have any 
too rugged edges to feed, can be cut out first 
while the composition is in progress, if you 
have the job well planned and it is rush. 

In closing, the author wishes to say that 
any time he can be of assistance to owners 
of a "Multiform" Outfit, you have but to com- 
mand. And please (In not forget the fore- 
word, to send in anything that will be inter- 
esting and helpful to your fellow-craftsmen 
for the next isstie of "The Art i)\ Die Making." 



:>:\ 



As an aid to die making buy a scroll saw. 
Several makes are illustrated on other pages. 
It is not only useful in making dies, but saves 
time and does the mortising and trimming of 
cuts to perfection. The best is cheapest of 
course, but they are all good value and you 
can make no mistake. 



Price List of Materials 



The quality of our materials is the very 
best that can be produced, and if you find that 
in any instance our price is higher than others, 
it is because of the better value given. Our 
motto is: "The Best is Cheapest." 

Two-point cutting rule, .923 high, .029 thick, 
soft or hard; 2-point cutting rule, .937 high, 
.029 thick, soft or hard ; 2-point scoring 
Rule rule, .918 high, .029 thick, soft or hard. 
In quantities of 100 feet or less, 8 cents 
per foot; 500 feet or more than 100, 6 cents 
per foot. 

The above is the standard rule in general 
use, and we furnish 2-point .937 soft with 
Outfits. 

1^-point cutting rule, .918 high, .021 thick, 
special soft for fancy work; 1^4-point cutting 
rule, .937 high, .021 thick, special soft for 
fancy work. In quantities of 100 feet or less, 
10 cents per foot. Special prices for larger 
amounts. 

This rule is made especially for us, and is 
for such work as the cut and scored lamp 
shade, and other fine work that requires a 
thin rule, of extra good quality. A quantity 
of this rule should be on hand for fine work 
at all times. 

We also carry, or can make prompt ship- 
ment from the factor}-, anything in the rule 
line, no matter how thick, how high, or any 
temper, but we do not list these, because for 
general purposes it simply is confusing to 

55 



the trade, as the man who is just starting into 
the work does not know what to select. 

We carry a full line of die boards in two 
kinds, made especially for us by the Hamilton 
Mfg. Company, which statement 
Die Board should convince any prospective 
buyer that what he gets will be 
right. For general purposes we have the 
smooth, clean, free-from-knots Beechwood. 
which is the best cheap material for the pui- 
pose that can be obtained. It comes in assort- 
ments of two-foot lengths, 3 to 10 inches wide, 
the proper thickness, and sells for $10.00 per 
square feet, f. o. b. Albion or the factory. 
Less than 100 feet, 12 cents per foot. 

For the fine, fancy die work we recommend 
our made-to-order, 5-ply laminated die board, 
which can be furnished in any desired size, 
and which is strong and firm and does not 
require that you allow so much margin when 
making a die to strengthen it. In lots of 100 
feet, any sizes you may select from the stand- 
ard list, or made to special sizes, $35.00 f. o. b. 
Albion or the factory. Less than 100 feet, 
40 cents per square foot. 

The following are the standard stock sizes : 
12x24, 16x24, 24x36, 18x24, 30x36, 
30x50, 30x60. Thirty inches the narrow^ way 
is the largest that can be made 

We always send samples of these woods 
with each "Multiform" Outfit, and while 
it is a simple matter for you to get suitable 
board from any mill in your city, you will feel 
w r ell repaid if you order a quantity of this spe- 
cial board, as it is so beautiful and uniform, 
and free from knots and imperfections. 

56 



Our Die Woods are the finest that can be 
procured, all clear selected stock and free 
from imperfections of consequence, and while 
we cannot guarantee our woods against 
warping, we can safely say that they are as 
free from this trouble as it is possible to have 
them. 

We have found that warping is almost in- 
variably due to the way the wood is handled 
after being received by the customer. The 
wood being unfinished and the pores open, it 
readily absorbs moisture, and if exposed to the 
atmosphere on one side only, the wood will 
surely warp, no matter what kind it is or what 
the construction may be. Die wood should 
therefore be kept in the original cases, cov- 
ered with paper or other material, w r ith a 
weight on top. After a die is made it is a 
good plan to oil the wood thoroughly., the 
same as printers' wood furniture is oiled, 
which will protect it from warping so badly, 
as it might otherwise do. Dies can be used 
for years if taken care of properly and are 
often picked up as pure "velvet" from the 
rack, as heretofore stated. 

We always carry in stock a large quantity 
of the small round corks, like the samples you 
received with your "Multiform" 
Cork Outfit. They are the best for the 
purpose that can be secured, and not 
of inferior grade of cork, which does not have 
the resiliency of the good grades 

In 1,000 lots, $2.75 f. o. b. Albion or Chi- 
cago; 100 lots, 35 cents, postage prepaid. 

We also have sheet cork in extra good qual- 
ity that is very convenient at times for cut- 



ting strips for long, narrow parts of a die. 
This comes in sheets, 4 x 12 inches, at 25 cents 
per sheet, 4 for $1.00, prepaid. 



Velocipede Scroll Saw 

Price, with Boring Attachment, $20.00 
Without Boring Attachment 18.00 




We recommend this machine very highly for a 
moderate priced saw. It has about the same 
capacit} r as Scroll Saw No. 7, but this is pre- 
ferred by many on account of the velocipede foot 
power, and because of its boring" attachment. 

The sw r ing around the blade under the arm is 
24 inches. The length of blade is 7 inches. The 
table and arms are of hard maple. The frame 
is of cast iron. The balance and drive wheels 
run on steel arbors. The machine weighs 00 
pounds. Boxed for shipment, 130 pounds. We 
include one dozen blades with each machine. 

59 



No. 7 Power Scroll Saw 




The above cut shows our Xo. 7 Scroll Saw, 
arranged with a counter-shaft. The price of 
counter-shaft, including the connecting band- 
wheel on the machine, is Sio. The price of Xo. 
7 Scroll Saw. arranged with counter- shaft only, 
(no foot power) is S20.00. The best cheap power 
saw on the market. 

Do not confuse any of these scroll saws with 
the amateur saws of your boyhood. 

Boring Attachment for Velocipede Saw 

The boring attachment can be furnished at any 
future time, if not desired when machine is 
ordered. One 3-16 bit is included with the bor- 
ing attachment. We can furnish extra bits at 
the following prices, each: 1-16, 15c; 3-32, 15c; 
1-8, 20c; 5-32, 20c; 3-16, 25c; 7-32, 30c: 1-4, 35c. 

60 



No. 7 Scroll Saw 



Prtce, $15.00 




We warrant it to be well made, of good mater- 
ial and workmanship. The ordinar} 7 rate of 
speed when sawing is from 800 to 1200 strokes 
per minute. The swing around the table, under 
the arm, is 24 inches. The length of the blade is 
7 inches. The table and arm are made of hard 
maple. The frame is made of cast iron, strong, 
yet light. The balance wheel runs on a steel 
arbor. The machine weighs 60 pounds. Boxed, 
for shipment, 05 pounds. We include 1 dozen 
blades with each machine. 



Grammes Scroll Saw 

S65.00 F. 0. B. Factory 
Allentown, Pa. 




A first class power saw, the same as used in 
our die making department. It is useful for all 
kinds of mortising and other work in a printing 
establishment. You can make no mistake in 
ordering a high priced saw. 




Copyright igio by J. A. Ridhards Co. 



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